Author name: Chris Crawford

Sewer Line Repair in Houston, TX: A 2026 Homeowner's Guide
Air Conditioning

Sewer Line Repair in Houston, TX: A 2026 Homeowner’s Guide

Sewer line repair fixes a damaged section of the underground pipe that carries wastewater from your home to the city’s sewer main. In Houston, most residential sewer trouble traces back to the same source, expansive clay soil shifting under slab-on-grade foundations and stressing the rigid pipe below. The right repair depends on what a camera inspection finds. A single cracked joint can often be handled with a targeted spot repair, while a collapsed or badly bellied line may need a section replaced or relined. The repair scope should follow the diagnosis. We have served Houston homeowners since 1956, and at Spring Branch AC we approach sewer work the way we approach HVAC: open the system up, confirm the real problem, and repair what can be repaired before anyone talks about replacement. For the under-slab failures common in Houston’s slab-foundation homes, our crews hand-dig tunnels beneath the slab to reach and repair the damaged pipe from the outside, which keeps the demolition out of your living space. Below, we cover what causes sewer line damage here, how to spot it early, how the repair is actually done, what it costs, and how to tell whether the line is your responsibility or the city’s. What a sewer line repair actually involves Your sewer lateral is the privately owned pipe that runs from your home’s plumbing out to the city’s main line. It usually sits under the yard, and in many Houston homes part of it runs beneath the concrete slab. When that pipe cracks, separates at a joint, or sags into a low spot, wastewater either backs up into the house or leaks into the soil underneath. Repair means fixing or replacing the failed portion of that pipe rather than tearing out the whole line. Depending on the diagnosis, that can mean a localized spot repair, a trenchless reline that creates a new pipe inside the old one, or digging and replacing a damaged section. The first step is always the same: see the actual condition of the pipe before choosing a method. Sewer work sits within our broader sewer and drain services, and every one of those jobs starts with a look inside the line. Why sewer lines fail in Houston homes Houston is hard on underground pipe. A few specific local factors do most of the damage. Shifting clay soil and slab foundations The Greater Houston area sits on expansive clay, the kind that swells when it absorbs water and shrinks when it dries out. Through a wet Gulf Coast spring and a dry late summer, that soil expands and contracts over and over. Rigid sewer pipe cannot flex with it. Over the years, that movement pulls pipe joints apart and creates low spots, known in the trade as bellies, where wastewater pools instead of draining. Eventually the pipe wall fractures. In slab-on-grade homes, the same soil movement that cracks a foundation also cracks the drain lines running beneath it. Once a pipe leaks, it saturates the surrounding clay, the clay swells more, and the next failure comes faster. Tree roots in the line Mature trees are the second common culprit. Roots chase moisture, and a sewer line full of warm water is a target. A root finds its way in through a small crack or a loose joint, then grows until it slows the flow or breaks the pipe open. One intrusion at a single joint is often a repair. Roots running the full length of an older line are a different situation, which we cover in the repair-versus-replace section below. Grease, wipes, and everyday clogs Not every sewer problem is structural. Plenty are blockages. According to Houston Public Works, about 70 percent of the city’s sanitary sewer overflows come from fats, oils, and grease combining with so-called flushable wipes, which do not break down the way toilet paper does. The city’s Protect Our Pipes guidance is blunt: flush only the three P’s, which are pee, poo, and paper, and pour cooled grease into a container for the trash. A clog and a cracked pipe call for different fixes. Clearing a stoppage with drain cleaning gets the line flowing again, but it does not repair a broken pipe. That is one more reason a camera inspection matters. It tells you whether you are looking at a blockage you can clear or structural damage you need to repair. Warning signs you may need sewer line repair Sewer problems usually show themselves before a full backup. Watch for: One or two of these can point to a simple clog. Several at once, or any sewage backup, points to a line problem worth inspecting. How a sewer line problem gets diagnosed A proper diagnosis comes before a repair quote. The baseline tool is a sewer camera. We run a waterproof camera on a flexible rod through an accessible cleanout and watch a live feed of the inside of the pipe, which shows root intrusion, scale, blockages, separated joints, and collapsed sections. Many camera heads also carry a transmitter, so a technician can trace the signal from above ground and mark the exact spot and depth of the failure. That keeps any digging targeted instead of exploratory. Our in-house sewer line video inspection is how we confirm what is actually wrong before recommending any work. Next to the cost of a major repair, an inspection is a small price for knowing exactly what you are dealing with. A camera has limits worth knowing. It only sees the inside of the pipe, so a line fully submerged by a belly or a downstream clog has to be cleared before the camera can see anything. It also cannot always catch a hairline crack that leaks into the soil without being visibly displaced. For suspected hidden leaks under a slab, plumbers add a hydrostatic test, which seals the line, fills it with water, and checks whether the level holds steady. If the water level drops, the line is leaking somewhere, and the test can be

A Spring Branch AC technician in uniform inspects an outdoor residential air conditioning condenser at a Houston home, representing a licensed HVAC contractor who diagnoses equipment before recommending repairs or replacement. The image supports the blog’s guidance on choosing a trustworthy HVAC company by verifying licensing, technician certifications, insurance, written estimates, load calculations, permits, and repair-first service instead of high-pressure sales tactics.
HVAC Tips

How to Choose the Right HVAC Contractor in Houston, TX (2026)

The most reliable way to choose an HVAC contractor in Houston is to verify a short list of things any homeowner can confirm on their own: an active Texas license, the right technician certifications, proof of insurance, a real load calculation before any new equipment, and a clear written estimate you can compare against others. Get those right, and one question answers itself. Are you hiring a technician or a salesperson? At Spring Branch AC, we’ve serviced Houston-area homes since 1956 under Texas license TACLB49330E, a number you can look up yourself in about a minute. We run a repair-first shop with no commissioned salespeople, which shapes how we think about this entire decision. The criteria below are the same ones we’d want our own family to use, whether they hire us or someone else. The real question: are you hiring a technician or a salesperson? A licensed company can still send a salesperson to your door. The difference shows up in behavior. A technician diagnoses the actual problem, opens the equipment to look before condemning anything, and recommends the least expensive fix that solves it. A sales-driven operation arrives looking for a reason to sell you a new system. Every criterion that follows maps to something you can verify with a phone, a website, and a willingness to ask. An honest contractor welcomes those questions. A salesperson gets cagey. The same split runs through every point below. Verify the Texas HVAC contractor license first This is the non-negotiable first step. In Texas, residential HVAC companies must hold an active Air Conditioning and Refrigeration (ACR) Contractor License issued by the Texas Department of Licensing and Regulation (TDLR). The license is held at the company level, and it is the single most verifiable thing about any contractor you’re considering. Texas issues two classes. Class A covers units of any size. Class B covers cooling systems up to 25 tons and heating up to 1.5 million BTU per hour, which covers virtually all residential work. License numbers read as TACLA (Class A) or TACLB (Class B) followed by digits. Ours, TACLB49330E, is a Class B license with the environmental air conditioning endorsement that covers home comfort systems. How to check an HVAC contractor’s license in Texas You can confirm any contractor’s license for free at the TDLR License Search. No account is required. Search by company name, city, or license number, then confirm: Texas licenses are valid for one year and require eight hours of continuing education to renew, so an active license also tells you the contractor is keeping current. If a company can’t or won’t give you a license number to look up, that alone is reason to stop. You can see how we present our own credentials on our qualifications page. Ask about technician certifications, not just the company license The company license is the floor. The people who actually show up should carry their own credentials. Think of it as a stack: Trade-association membership, like the Texas Air Conditioning Contractors Association, is a secondary signal that a contractor stays engaged with the industry rather than a credential to hang the whole decision on. Make sure the contractor is insured A Texas ACR license already requires the contractor to carry continuous commercial general liability insurance for as long as the license is active. For Class B contractors, that means at least $100,000 per occurrence. If a contractor’s coverage lapses, they are in violation and can’t legally contract with the public. Ask for a Certificate of Insurance, and if you want to be thorough, call the listed carrier to confirm the policy is active. This matters because if an uninsured contractor’s worker is injured on your property, or damages your home, you can end up exposed. One phone call removes that risk. Insist on a load calculation before any new system The cleanest test of whether you’re dealing with a technician or a salesperson is simple. Ask whether they will perform a load calculation before sizing a new system, and whether you can see it. The industry standard is the ACCA Manual J residential load calculation, an ANSI-recognized method that sizes equipment to your home based on square footage, insulation, windows, orientation, and Houston’s climate. A correct load calculation is required by national building codes for new installations. Matching the old unit’s tonnage or eyeballing it from the curb is not the same thing. Bigger is not better, and in Houston it is actively worse. An oversized air conditioner cools the air fast but shuts off before it runs long enough to pull humidity out, a problem called short cycling. According to ENERGY STAR, an oversized unit leaves a home damp and clammy, creates uneven temperatures, wears out faster from constant stopping and starting, and costs more to run. Efficiency actually improves the longer a unit runs. We see the consequences of oversizing constantly. On one recent call, a family had just bought a home with a 4-ton system serving a space that needed about 2 tons. That oversized equipment was the source of their chronic humidity. Right-sizing the system fixed it. If you are weighing a new system, our guide on how to select a new system walks through the same sizing logic. Know the current efficiency standard (SEER2) in Texas If a contractor quotes you a new system, the efficiency rating should meet current federal minimums. As of January 1, 2023, new split-system air conditioners installed in the southern region, which includes Texas, must meet at least 14.3 SEER2 for systems under 45,000 BTU per hour. SEER2 is the updated rating from a test procedure that better reflects real ductwork, so the numbers run a little lower than the old SEER scale. The “13 SEER minimum” figure you will still see quoted around the web is out of date. You don’t need to memorize the math. Confirm any proposed system meets the 14.3 SEER2 floor, and ask the contractor to state the SEER2 rating in writing on

How Much Does a New HVAC System Cost in Houston, TX
HVAC Tips

How Much Does a New HVAC System Cost in Houston, TX? (2026)

A complete HVAC system replacement in the Houston area typically costs $10,000 to $22,000 installed when new ductwork is part of the job, with most whole-system replacements landing in the low five figures. A national dataset of recent homeowner projects puts the 2026 average closer to $11,590 to $14,100, and a typical AC and gas furnace setup for a 2,000 to 2,500 square foot home averages around $13,430 before major add-ons. Ductwork, electrical work, premium equipment, and tricky installations push the number up from there. At Spring Branch Air Conditioning & Heating, we’ve replaced systems for Houston-area homeowners since 1956, and we publish our own replacement pricing organized by system size and efficiency tier. We also tell people the truth about what they need, including the times they don’t need a full replacement at all. Real technicians work here, not professional salespeople, so this guide gives you straight numbers and the reasoning behind them, then shows you how to read a quote so you don’t get oversold on a five-figure decision. What is the average cost of a new HVAC system in Houston? For most Houston homes, a full system replacement falls in the low five figures. Here is how the most reliable sources line up: Source Figure What it covers Houston metro estimate $10,000 to $22,000 Complete HVAC replacement with new ductwork 2026 national average $11,590 to $14,100 Full HVAC replacement, based on recent homeowner projects 2,000 to 2,500 sq. ft. home About $13,430 AC and gas furnace system before major add-ons Simpler split-system change-out $3,750 to $7,400 Narrower scope, not a whole-system job The wide spread is the part that matters. The Houston metro range comes from an aggregator that localizes national project costs, while the $11,590 to $14,100 figure is drawn from roughly 56,000 real homeowner projects over six months. Both point to the same conclusion: budget in the low five figures for a typical whole-system replacement, and expect the final number to move based on the specifics of your home. That low-end “$3,750 to $7,400” figure deserves a flag. It reflects a simpler split-system change-out, not a complete system replacement with ductwork and everything else. If a quote comes in well below the broader range, ask exactly what scope it includes before you assume you found a bargain. HVAC replacement cost by system size and efficiency Two factors drive the base equipment cost more than anything else: how big the system needs to be, measured in tons, and how efficient it is, measured in SEER2. Larger systems cost more because they use more material and bigger components. Higher-efficiency systems cost more upfront but use less energy over their life. Equipment-only pricing climbs steadily with tonnage. National figures show roughly $2,100 for a 2-ton unit up to around $3,700 for a 5-ton unit, for the air conditioner alone. Those are equipment numbers, not installed system costs, so a finished Houston job lands well above them once you add the indoor unit, labor, materials, and permits. Efficiency adds another layer. The federal minimum for new split-system air conditioners in the southern zone, which includes Houston, is now 14.3 SEER2. You can install at that floor or step up to higher-efficiency, two-stage, or variable-speed equipment. In Houston’s climate, that upgrade often pays back faster than it would in a cooler market, which we get into below. We publish our own replacement pricing by system size and efficiency tier so homeowners can see real installed numbers rather than aggregator averages. The general shape of it: a smaller, single-speed system sits at the low end, and a larger, variable-speed system sits at the top. Asking for pricing laid out this way is a good habit with any contractor, because it lets you compare apples to apples. What affects the cost of an HVAC replacement? Two quotes for the “same size, same brand” system can still differ by thousands of dollars. Here is what moves the number: When you compare bids, ask each contractor what is included. A higher quote that covers proper ductwork, a permit, and a matched, AHRI-certified system may be a better value than a cheaper one that leaves those out. Why correct system sizing matters more than homeowners think The most common mistake we see in the field is an oversized system. Most systems people buy are too large for the home they are cooling, and in Houston that is a real problem, not a safety margin. An oversized air conditioner cools the house too quickly, then shuts off before it has run long enough to pull humidity out of the air. The federal Department of Energy is direct about this: an oversized unit won’t adequately remove humidity, which leaves indoor air feeling clammy even when the thermostat reads a comfortable temperature. In a humid climate like ours, that is a comfort problem you feel every day. It is a cost problem too. A system that short-cycles, turning on and off in bursts of only a few minutes, runs less efficiently and drives up operating costs, and the constant starting and stopping adds wear that shortens equipment life. Federal guidance ties this directly to oversizing: a unit that is too large cools fast but cycles off before it does its job. That is why the Department of Energy stresses getting the size right in hot, humid climates rather than treating extra capacity as a safety margin. The right way to size a system is a load calculation, not a square-foot guess or a “replace it with the same size that was here” shortcut. At Spring Branch, we run that calculation on the specific home rather than guessing. We have walked into houses with a unit several times larger than the roughly 2 tons the space actually needed, and the result was chronic humidity and the growth problems that come with it. The bigger equipment created the problem. It did not solve it. Should the indoor coil be replaced with the outdoor unit? Yes. Split systems are designed

If your air conditioner is running but the house still feels damp and sticky, the system is cooling the air without pulling enough moisture out of it. In Greater Houston, the cause we find most often is a system that was oversized by a previous installer. It cools the house so fast that it shuts off before it can wring the humidity out. The good news is that the fix usually starts with a few inexpensive checks, not a new system. At Spring Branch AC, we've been diagnosing humidity problems in Gulf Coast homes since 1956. Over those decades we've opened up plenty of systems that other companies wanted to replace, only to find the real issue was a clogged drain line, a low refrigerant charge, or equipment sized wrong for the home. This guide walks through what's actually causing the dampness, what you can check yourself, and when it's time to bring in a technician.
Air Conditioning

Why Is My House So Humid With the AC Running? (Houston, TX)

If your air conditioner is running but the house still feels damp and sticky, the system is cooling the air without pulling enough moisture out of it. In Greater Houston, the cause we find most often is a system that was oversized by a previous installer. It cools the house so fast that it shuts off before it can wring the humidity out. The good news is that the fix usually starts with a few inexpensive checks, not a new system. At Spring Branch AC, we’ve been diagnosing humidity problems in Gulf Coast homes since 1956. Over those decades we’ve opened up plenty of systems that other companies wanted to replace, only to find the real issue was a clogged drain line, a low refrigerant charge, or equipment sized wrong for the home. This guide walks through what’s actually causing the dampness, what you can check yourself, and when it’s time to bring in a technician. How Your AC Removes Humidity (and Why It Sometimes Doesn’t) Your air conditioner does two jobs at once. It lowers the air temperature, which is what your thermostat reads, and it pulls moisture out of the air. The moisture removal is a byproduct of cooling. Warm, humid indoor air gets drawn across a cold evaporator coil, water vapor condenses on that coil the same way it beads up on a cold glass of iced tea, and the water collects in a pan and runs out through the condensate drain. The catch is that the coil has to stay cold and wet long enough to do that work. The U.S. Department of Energy notes that an air conditioner which cools the air quickly but cycles off too soon leaves a room feeling damp and clammy even though the temperature dropped. Lowering the temperature is the easy part. Removing the moisture takes runtime. What Should Indoor Humidity Be in a Houston Home? For comfort and to protect your home, indoor relative humidity should stay below 60 percent, and ideally land between 48 and 52 percent. The EPA recommends keeping it under 60 percent because higher levels create the conditions for bacterial growth, dust mites, and damage to wood, finishes, and furnishings. There’s a comfort cost too. Humid air feels warmer than it is, so when a house stays muggy, people tend to crank the thermostat down. That runs the system longer and the bill higher, and the house still feels damp, because lowering the temperature does nothing to pull moisture out of the air. Why Houston Homes Feel Sticky Even With the AC On Houston summers pile on a heavy moisture load. A system that’s even slightly off struggles to keep up here in ways it wouldn’t in a dry climate. The National Weather Service measures that mugginess using the dew point, the temperature at which air becomes saturated with moisture. Dew point How the air feels 55°F or below Dry and comfortable 55°F to 65°F Becoming sticky and muggy 65°F or above Heavy moisture, oppressive Source: National Weather Service Houston summer dew points routinely sit in that top, oppressive band. Local humidity often climbs above 90 percent in the early morning and eases to around 60 percent by mid-afternoon. All of that outdoor moisture means your AC has to do far more dehumidification work than a unit in Phoenix or Denver, and any weak point in the system shows up fast as a clammy house. The Most Common Causes of High Humidity While the AC Runs Most humidity problems trace back to airflow, the drain line, the refrigerant charge, or sizing. Here’s a quick map of the usual causes and who handles each one, followed by the details. Cause What’s happening Who handles it Thermostat fan set to ON The blower re-evaporates water off the coil back into the house You Dirty air filter Restricted airflow can freeze the coil and stop dehumidification You, or a technician if it’s iced Clogged condensate drain Standing water keeps the coil area wet You to spot, a technician for deep clogs Low refrigerant charge The coil runs too cold and ices over A technician Leaky or disconnected ducts Humid attic air gets pulled into the system A technician Oversized system Cools too fast, shuts off before drying the air A technician Start With the Simple Checks You Can Do Yourself Before anyone talks about new equipment, run through the cheap, common stuff. Two of these cost nothing. Set the Thermostat Fan to AUTO, Not ON This is the first thing to check, and it’s free. When the fan is set to ON, the blower keeps running even after the compressor shuts off. The coil is still wet from the last cooling cycle, and that constant airflow re-evaporates the water and blows it right back into your house instead of letting it drain. Building scientist Allison Bailes of Energy Vanguard has documented how the fan-ON setting raises indoor humidity for exactly this reason. Switch it to AUTO so the coil can drain between cycles. Check Your Air Filter A dirty filter chokes airflow across the evaporator coil. With too little air moving across it, the coil gets too cold and the condensation on it freezes into ice. A technical case study in ACHR News documented a clogged filter dropping a coil to 26°F and freezing it solid. Once the coil ices over, it stops both cooling and dehumidifying. Check your filter monthly and replace it every one to three months. While you’re at it, make sure supply and return vents aren’t blocked by furniture, rugs, or drapes. Look at the Condensate Drain In Houston, the primary AC drain line is usually routed to a bathroom sink, and over time it clogs with algae.  A backed-up line leaves standing water sitting in the drain pan, which keeps the area around the coil wet and can trip the float switch that shuts the system off. Spotting a dripping or backed-up line, or water around the indoor unit, is something you

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